01 / Measure

Measure the stack you will actually set.

Do not size a rivet from leather weight alone. A “four-ounce” hide, a skived edge, a folded strap, a liner, adhesive, and reinforcement can all produce different finished stacks.

Starting relationship

Required post space = compressed material stack + the rivet maker’s forming allowance

Many capped-rivet systems are discussed around roughly 1–2 mm of forming allowance. Treat that only as a first scrap-test range; the manufacturer’s chart and rivet geometry govern.

A repeatable measuring method

  1. 1
    Build the real stack.

    Include the outer leather, liner, folded return, reinforcement, washer, and any other layer the post will pass through.

  2. 2
    Compress it gently.

    Use smooth-jaw calipers or press the layers between flat scrap pieces. Aim to represent the assembled piece without crushing it.

  3. 3
    Measure at the hole location.

    Edge skiving and folds make one project vary from place to place. Measure where each hardware family will sit.

  4. 4
    Record the number.

    Write the stack thickness on the pattern or sample coupon so the next batch does not depend on memory.

Useful conversion

One sixteenth of an inch is approximately 1.6 mm. That is enough to change which neighboring post length deserves the first test.

02 / Read the listing

Four dimensions matter more than “small, medium, large.”

A

Post length

Usually measured from the underside of the head or base to the end of the post. Confirm the seller’s diagram; naming conventions can differ.

B

Cap diameter

The visible head width. It affects appearance, edge clearance, and which concave setter or die can support the cap.

C

Shaft diameter

The post width. This guides the starting punch size; the finished hole should not let the assembled rivet wobble freely.

D

Construction and material

“Brass finish,” “brass plated,” and “solid brass” are not interchangeable material descriptions. Confirm the exact wording and rivet family.

03 / Name the system

Do not share a size chart across rivet constructions.

Double-cap rivet

A cap is visible on both faces. The post and mating cap form together with a matched concave support and setter.

Verify: both cap diameters, post length, shaft diameter, and matching die profile.

Single-cap or tubular rivet

One decorative cap is paired with a formed or less-decorative reverse. Terminology varies, so use the listing diagram.

Verify: intended reverse-side finish, post style, and setter shape.

Solid rivet and burr

A solid post passes through the stack and burr, then is trimmed and peened. It uses a different sizing and setting process.

Verify: post diameter, usable shank length, burr match, trimming allowance, and peening tools.

04 / Prove it on scrap

Make a three-hole test coupon.

Use offcuts from the actual project and recreate the complete stack. Punch three evenly spaced holes away from the edge. Test the maker-recommended size first, then the nearest shorter and longer options only if the system offers them.

Promising sample

  • Both faces sit square to the leather.
  • The joint does not rattle or rotate freely.
  • The cap profile remains supported rather than flattened.
  • The surrounding leather is not deeply crushed or split.

Stop and adjust

  • The post bottoms before the cap seats.
  • The cap tilts, dishes, splits, or shows a die ring.
  • The stack puckers or the hole tears outward.
  • The joint remains loose after the intended setting stroke.

05 / Buying checklist

Save these details before ordering.

  • Compressed stack thickness at each rivet location
  • Rivet construction: double-cap, tubular, or solid-and-burr
  • Post length and the seller’s measurement reference
  • Cap diameter and shaft diameter
  • Exact material and finish wording
  • Setter or die part intended for that rivet family
  • Enough extra pieces for same-stack test coupons